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December 06, 2008

Guests of the Ayatollah

This is a very personal blog, but what the heck...

On Friday, I visited the site of the old U.S. Embassy in Tehran. Well, "visited" is probably too strong a word. We were driving in downtown Tehran when an Iranian friend announced that "We are near the site of your old embassy." A block and a half later it appeared on our left, and we pulled over--quickly--to take a look at the walled compound. Set in stone in the wall is the old official symbol, barely visible now, of the U.S. government eagle. The Embassy, as is well known, is now a shrine to America's alleged "crimes" around the world.

As it was Friday, said museum was closed and no one was around save for one guard at the gate.

Seeing the Embassy, where U.S. diplomats were held hostage for 444 days until they were freed in January 1981, brought a mixture of pain, sadness, nostalgia and confusion.

Most Americans around my age (46) remember where they were when the hostage crisis--and the failed rescue attempt by President Jimmy Carter--happened. In my case, I was a senior in high school. These were traumatic events even to those not directly involved.

Seeing the Embassy also closed a journalistic full circle for me. The story goes like this: In 1980, I was a freshman at St. Mary's College of Maryland, and working on the student newspaper there, an every-other-week journal with attitude called the Empath. One of our staff members had a father who was in the Air Force - not only that, he was (if memory serves), director of the flight line at Andrews Air Force Base. And so, on the day that the American hostages at long last came home, the day of President Ronald Reagan's inauguration, I and a few of my colleagues had a front-row seat to history.

I was there on the Andrews flight line when the plane bearing the hostages touched down and they stepped off the plane to be reunited with friends and family, there next to the Sam Donaldsons and Dan Rathers of the world. It was pretty heady stuff for an 18-year-old, and I was forever hooked on journalism and world affairs - a career that has blessed me with close-up views of lots of other history, covering five secretaries of state, and reporting from over 90 countries (Iran being the latest).

Iran's Islamic revolution will mark its 30th anniversary next year. Iran has never apologized for the take-over of the embassy and the hostage-taking, although some of the Iranian students involved have expressed regret.

Despite what happened then, and the bad blood between the two countries before and mostly since, people in Tehran, at least the educated classes, still have genuine affection for America. I've traveled enough to know the difference between formal, but insincere hospitality, and the real thing.

On one of my first days in Iran, I went to a small cafe for coffee and a snack. When the man working on the other side of the coffee bar discovered where I was from, his face immediately brightened. "When are you (Americans) coming back?" he asked.



Eagle

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Comments

Marc Dolan

The U.S. government never apologized for the infamous destruction of an Iranian civilian airliner either:

A little over a year after the [Iraqi] attack [on the USS Stark], on July 3, 1988, two surface-to-air missiles are fired at Iran Air flight 655 by the USS Vincennes, an Aegis-class cruiser. The USS Vincennes was reportedly inside Iranian territorial waters at the time. The first missile cut civilian airliner Iran Air 655 in half. All 290 passengers and crew aboard the Iranian airbus were killed.

According to journalist Robert Fisk, who, at the time was in the Iranian port city of Bandar Abbas where the human remains of flight 655 were collected, "...in her open coffin Leila Behbahani was still in the same garments and bracelets that she had worn when she was fished out of the water minutes after the Vincennes brought down the passenger plane -- a green dress and white pinafore, two bright gold bangles on each wrist, white socks, and tiny black shoes. Leila was three-years old. There were 66 children on board the aircraft."

George H. W. Bush was quoted after the American attack on the Iranian civilian airliner IR 655: "I will never apologize for the United States -- I don't care what the facts are."

thebronze

Sorry about the double post. It's due to this horrible typekey page you have.

thebronze

Sorry about the double post. It's due to this horrible typekey page you have.

thebronze

Strobel, you're such a liar. You can't even gets the facts right on a story that's supposed to be your own!

You got called out as a liar on McClatchyWatch's blog.

You're pathetic. And a verified liar.

thebronze

Strobel, you're such a liar. You can't even gets the facts right on a story that's supposed to be your own!

You got called out as a liar on McClatchyWatch's blog.

You're pathetic. And a verified liar.

Paul

Good report, Warren!

I also remember the return of the hostages - the same day as RR's inauguration.

As one of the buses left the AF base, one of the hostages held a hand-written sign up against the window: "Buy Iraqi War Bonds"

Alas, the rest is history...

Tim J.

From
http://www.moreorless.au.com/heroes/mossadegh.html :

2000 - On 17 March US Secretary of State Madeline Albright publicly admits to the role of the US in the 1953 coup.

"The United States played a significant role in orchestrating the overthrow of Iran's popular prime minister, Mohammed Mossadegh," Albright says.

"The Eisenhower administration believed its actions were justified for strategic reasons. But the coup was clearly a set back for Iran's political development and it is easy to see why so many Iranians continue to resent this intervention by America in their internal affairs."

Warren Strobel

Dan - Thanks for your too-kind words. .. I'm pretty sure that Albright, when she was secretary of state (and when Khatami was president here in Iran), apologized for the U.S. role in the coup against Mossadegh. Exactly how it was phrased I can't recall.

Warren

Dan

Warren, you are a true journalistic luminary. You actually have a pulse and a conscience, and it shows. Your reporting empowers individuals (Average Joe), not senators, gavel-wielders and bureaucrats. For this, you should be praised constantly.

I would like to add just one thing to your comment about the lack of an official Iranian apology: the U.S. government never officially apologized for its major role in the overthrowing of Mossadegh, and subsequent subsidizing of decades of "Stalin-lite" Shah rule. (I'm assuming that you see the significance of this history to the overtaking of the embassy; but I also understand the overriding emotional factor at work here. I, too, recall the ordeal as a youngster, though not in as personal a way as yours.)

In fact, the U.S. govt. has done nothing if not egregiously violated the 1981 Algiers Accords all these years. When was the last time AP, the NYT, Reuters, or AFP mentioned the Accords — much less, in relation to the U.S. taxpayer-subsidized MeK, unilateral sanctions, asset freezes, and so forth? If McClatchy has mentioned the Algiers Accords in context with the U.S.-Iran row these past few years, I've not seen it.

Still, McClatchy is a bastion among the cartellized press, thanks to folks like you. Maybe one day it will be independent of the "collective"; then perhaps you won't have to be relegated almost-exclusively to the blogs.

Be well.

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"Nukes & Spooks" is written by McClatchy correspondents Jonathan S. Landay (national security and intelligence), Warren P. Strobel (foreign affairs and the State Department), and Nancy Youssef (Pentagon).

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