The Iraqi foreign minister, Hoshyar Zebari, waited on a red carpet inside the foreign ministry for officials from neighboring countries, other Middle Eastern countries and the Group of Eight industrialized nations. It was the second meeting of its kind to bring together Iraq's neighbors to discuss the nations' security.
The minister chatted and joked with a New York Times reporter while the rest of the media was relegated to stand behind red ropes and watch him greet guests. Before each delegation entered the hall, they shed their body armor and helmet, shook hands with the minister and smiled for the cameras sans personal protection.
There was the large Iranian delegation in suits with no ties, the Kuwaiti, Saudi and Bahraini delegations in the flowing white traditional dishdashas, an Italian delegate in tortoise shell glasses, and the American delegation in business suits. Then there were all the guards; British, American and South African guards lined the walls of the sixth floor and flags of the diplomats they were protecting were pinned onto their body armor.
Politicians hailed this as a sign of progress in security. All these officials could come together safely in Baghdad. But outside the ministry, bridges across the capital were blocked off to safeguard the building, sending Iraqis into panic as they tried to make it to work and school on Sunday morning, the equivilant of a Monday in the United States.
We drove through the streets trying to make it to the foreign ministry. At the Jumhuriya Bridge in central Baghdad, one of the main bridges in the capital that connects the east bank of the river to the west, we were stopped. On the other side were the places I needed to be, the heavily fortified Green Zone, the Iranian embassy and the Foreign Ministry were out of reach. We begged the Iraqi soldiers to let us through.
"Not even generals can pass over this right now," he said. I called the Foreign Ministry but they’d made no efforts to ensure that the journalists they invited could make it through the maze of blocked roads. So with tens of other Iraqis we abandoned our cars and walked the 25-30 minutes to the ministry.
As we strolled over the bridge that connects the two banks of the river, young students scurried to make it to their exams on time, women and men dashed off to work and large U.S. convoys rolled through the street. We passed men waiting at kabob and shawarma vendors, the equivalent of hot dog stands in the states, waiting for hot meat sandwiches. Inside a barber shop an Iraqi man got his morning shave then the barber used thread to rip stubborn hairs from his face. I’m not sure if the curbs of the sidewalk were shattered into pieces because of abandoned reconstruction projects or violence.
We stepped over concertina wire and random police officers asked to search our bags. Finally we arrived at the ministry. We were patted down, our phones were taken and after checking us off the list we were allowed inside to watch officials hobnob in a town safe enough to hold such a meeting.

Had I not known better, I might have mistaken your description for that of the security surrounding the recent APEC summit in Sydney, Australia. A three mile long barrier, 5,000 troops and police on the streets, disrupted road and rail networks....
It seems our leaders are becoming more and more scared of us.
Of course, Sydney is hardly Baghdad, but I'm old enough to remember a time when presidents and prime ministers would be welcomed out on the streets.
Your reports are excellent. Take care out there.
Posted by: RJ Adams | September 09, 2007 at 04:34 PM
How can Bush's homeland security adviser, Frances Fragos Townsend, say that Osama bin Laden is “virtually impotent,” contrary to top intelligence experts, and when no one even knows where he is or what he has been doing?
The Bush administration would have us believe that Iraq is the “central” front in the global war on terror, and that bin Laden is on some permanent vacation in a cave – no longer a threat? Do these people ever think before they speak? “al-Qaida in Iraq” is only loosely affiliated with al-Qaida and did not even exist before we invaded Iraq. It has been widely reported that al-Qaida is back, in strength, in the lawless Pakistan-Afghanistan border region.
According to some, a debate over the various progress reports from Petraeus, other commanders, government agencies and diplomats is “moot” because Bush has already decided to carry his “new” strategy forward and Democrats lack the votes to stop him.
All I have heard from the war supporters is that the mainstream media is so liberally biased as to be unreliable. Yet, it almost seems forbidden that anybody should ask any hard questions. Why hasn’t Bush taken any steps to alleviate the strain on the military? In a country of 300 million “patriots,” why is it unreasonable to call for a draft? This ill-conceived war in Iraq has put this country in a very precarious position.
The surge was not a number deemed necessary by military experts but rather just a number they were able to scrounge up by extending to fifteen months the tours of the already overtaxed troops. General Petraeus, himself, wrote the army’s new counterinsurgency manual, which calls for as many troops in Baghdad, alone, as are in the entire country. His silence on this point brings into question anything he has to say in regards to the success of the surge or the strategy going forward.
At least it does for me. But, I am just one military family member, a minority, who is not blinded by “patriotism.” I am not willing to sacrifice my loved ones needlessly and recklessly. The military comprises not even 1% of our population and it speaks greatly to the character and honor, or lack thereof, of our “commander-in-chief” and the other 99.99% that the lives and well-being of those brave soldiers who have carried this entire burden does not even rate the slightest consideration.
Posted by: karennkc | September 10, 2007 at 11:29 PM
Leila,
These are fantastic dispatches.
I've been reading about the Iraq War obsessively online for years, and I found them today for the first time.
This presents, at the least, a tragic waste.
Your editors are criminally irresponsible for not getting you on the blogrolls of major political blogs.
Make this happen! If you ask yourself "am I making a difference?" and you measure that by how many people read you, then..that's what you need to do.
Part of the reason this country is politically paralyzed is that people are getting their info from "Iraq the Model". Your light does no good at the bottom of a well.
Posted by: glasnost | September 15, 2007 at 10:27 AM
EXACTLY WHY I MADE THE COUNTRY'S FIRST AND ONLY POLITICALLY CONSERVATIVE MUSIC CD.(Blaming America First)
www.conservativemusiconline.com
Posted by: lance | September 16, 2007 at 02:16 AM